Frequently Asked Questions | Von Goedehaus German Shepherds

How do I socialize my new puppy prior to having them fully vaccinated?

First focus on changing the goal of puppy socialization in your mind. Remember that socialization isn’t just meeting every single person you come across and letting them pet your puppy or allowing your puppy to meet every random dog they come across (bad idea anyway). Your goal should actually be striving to have a neutral pup in all situations who looks towards you the handler for guidance. You can very much provide an enriching exposure to new and novel things and insuring a great experience is had. You can even do socialization in your home in a pinch and outside in your yard as well as on walks by doing just that, use your imagination and expose your pup to something new every day. Celebrate when they explore something new. Take the toaster off of your counter and put it on your floor. Rearrange things outside or in your house to get your puppy used to taking differences in their environment in stride. Take your pup for a very short walk away from areas dogs usually go where there are boulders or other natural obstacles if you are able. Go to an empty ball field and walk the weird metal bleachers. Find a metal grate to walk your pup across. Certainly professional dog training or puppy classes are good to do when you can, but you can still have a very well socialized puppy who is safely learning about the world around them with a little creativity.

How do we socialize your puppies?

We socialize our puppies to our own children, dog/puppy friendly older dogs, and our friends when they are old enough.
We begin crate acclimation games at around 5 weeks old so they learn crates are not a scary place.

https://www.facebook.com/VGHKennels/videos/953718558330325/

The bottle curtain gets them used to loud noises and sudden movements. It’s a protection sport dog distraction. The pups that handle it the best are the ones I will focus on for our working homes (among other key traits).
The bottle pool is great for loud noises (like the noise CD we play for them), plus sudden shifting movements on an unstable surface, and also tests hunt drive/food drive. The pups who look for food the longest usually have good hunt and food drive, also useful traits to place puppies in working homes. The pups who get in the bottle pool first are always the most environmentally stable puppies, the ones who just “do things”. You can always build a puppy up to handle anything, but if you don’t want to spend a lot of time ‘convincing’ them to try new things, this is a useful exercise to determine who should go where (working/performance home). Finally, when you see them playing in the bottle pool ‘just because’, they’re simply having FUN. It’s like kids in a ball pit, only cuter lol.
If you listen, you can also hear the sound in the background of the CD I play when they’re able to hear. Plays thunder, gunshots, fireworks, vacuum noises etc. it’s just one of the many things I do to prepare our pups for their transition from our home to yours! I don’t want puppies that startle at simple, everyday noises, exposure to this stimuli when young is best!
I do all of this because I want a complete picture of the pup’s strengths and weaknesses, as well as the type of puppy they are – so you won’t get a pup that ends up being too much dog. You wouldn’t send a Ferrari to a 16 year old who just got their driver’s license on their birthday…would you? Nor would you want a pup as a pet who should have been placed in a working home. All of this means you’re happy with your puppy, your puppy is happy with YOU, and I am one happy breeder!

Will the puppies get their vaccinations? What kind of vet care do you do?

Our puppies are given the wormer pyrantel pamoate at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks old. They are also given a coccidia preventative multiple times during their time here. We have them professionally vet checked at Heritage Animal Hospital at about 7 weeks old. The vet checks heart, eyes, teeth/bite, limbs, hernia, testicles etc. They are given their first round of puppy vaccinations at this time and microchipped with Fi Nano microchips. These chips will always be registered to our kennel. In case anything happens to our pups, we will get notified. We will assist you in putting your information on the microchip as well. There are no yearly fees for these chips.
It is required by contract for you to make an appointment at your vet within 72 hours of bringing your puppy home and notify us of your vets findings (or the first appointment available, it is hard to get into the vet these days). This is to make certain your vet also does not find any undiagnosed health issues our vet may have missed. It protects both the seller and buyer to do this. Failure to do this well puppy vet visit by your vet after you bring your puppy home will void any health guarantee.

When are your puppies ready to go home?

Our puppies are ready to leave at 8 weeks old. It is important for them to learn as much as they can from both their mothers and littermates during this time. They learn a lot about bite inhibition and interacting with other dogs. Often, some puppy owners claim their puppies bite too hard or that their dogs are asocial and suffer from dog aggression. A common trait among many of these puppies were they were removed too early from their litter.

Limited vs. Full Registration with AKC

All puppies are sold on LIMITED AKC registration (no breeding rights). Registration can be amended to FULL Registration upon Buyer providing proof to Seller of ALL the following requirements being met:
Puppy has reached the age of 24 months
Puppy has received OFFICIAL hip and elbow ratings considered “passing” and free of dysplasia via the OFA (hips must be fair, good, or excellent and elbows normal) or German SV a stamp program (must be normal or fast normal)
Puppy has received a minimum of one of the following preliminary working titles: IGP BH/VT; AKC/UKC CD; HGH title; PSA title, AKC Rally titles, etc. We are flexible, we enjoy seeing our dogs worked, if you have a question about working your dog and full registration, just ask. Titles in other fields may qualify for full registration at Seller’s discretion. We have lifted limited on 12 plus dogs and counting and pay the AKC fee to do so ourselves.

What food do we feed our puppies?

Puppy Food: Currently we feed our puppies Biljac Large Breed Puppy Food. I usually start them on a mixture of raw ground turkey and goat’s milk mush, but Biljac Large Breed Puppy is the food your puppy will be transitioned to prior to pick-up. We do not require you keep your puppy on that food but do recommend you get a small bag of it to make sure your puppy doesn’t get an upset tummy from switching foods too abruptly. We do NOT recommend grain free foods at this time due to the possible connection between those kinds of foods and heart issues in dogs. We feel it is better to err on the side of caution and chose a food with grain until the veterinary community can figure out what the exact link between the food and the health issues is.

Health Tests for Adult Dogs

Our dogs are health tested. Their hips and elbows are certified through USA registries OFA or PennHIP, or overseas in Europe through FCI, SV, or Czech rating system. They are also DNA tested for Degenerative Myelopathy.

How does your deposit work and is it refundable?

When you are ready to get on our wait list, we require a non-refundable $500 deposit. The deposit is transferable to another litter of your choice should something come up. Your deposit is always good with us.
The deposit will solidify your place in line for the litter. I may take one or two deposits for working males or females per litter, and I may also take one or two deposits for first pick pet home male or female per litter. We are a working line German Shepherd breeder, so working homes always get first pick before pet homes do. The first person to get their deposit in for a working quality puppy will get first pick of all of the suitable puppies for work. The first person to get their deposit in for a pet quality puppy will get first pick of all the suitable active family companion type puppies.

Do you have a hip guarantee?

We have a limited 26 month joint guarantee for hips and elbows. The typical age to bring your dog in for prelims (or SV x-rays) is 12 months. The perfect window of opportunity to check the development of your puppy’s joints is upon physical maturity. You as the buyer must agree to maintain preventative care of the puppy/dog in regards to hip/elbow dysplasia. Proper nutrition, weight, age appropriate exercise, and preventing stress injuries is important to fulfilling your end of the agreement. If the dog develops hip or elbow dysplasia, I will replace the dog as soon as possible with a replacement of equal value at the time of purchase. I reserve the right to request an x-ray of the dog at a veterinarian of my choosing and that the x-ray be sent to a board certified veterinary radiologist or other veterinarian of my choice. It is NOT necessary to return your original puppy/dog to us in the event a replacement puppy is given to you. For this guarantee to remain in effect, the puppy must be maintained at a lean, healthy weight and remain unaltered until at least the age of 18 months. Spaying and neutering your dog is a personal choice, but current studies have shown altering your dog prior to reaching maturity increases chances of joint malformation and other joint disorders, so that is why this is an important part of our joint guarantee. The replacement puppy will be given once proof of spay/neuter of your original dog has been given. If you are unable to take a puppy after your original dog has been spayed/neutered, a 50% monetary refund of your original puppy purchase price may be offered in lieu of a replacement dog when we are financially able to send that to you.

How do you avoid Parvo and other viruses?

You just picked up your puppy and now have a couple hour drive home. You will need to stop and potty your dog. Avoid normal places like pet stores, rest stops, etc. Everyone potties their dogs there. This would be a prime location for your puppy to pick up a virus. Oftentimes I will find a business where there is grass and not a lot of dog traffic.
When you get home, do not take your new puppy to the pet store. A lot of viruses live in and around pet stores.
Another area to watch is taking your puppy to the vet. I will generally potty the puppy prior to leaving my home and then carrying my puppy into the vet. Most vets keep their facilities clean, but can only do so much with the outside. Many sick dogs come to them and walk in. Would hate for your new pup to get sick.
Dog parks are a big NO with your new puppy. Your puppy may be exposed to many different viruses along with picking up many bad behaviors and/or getting bullied by other dogs. We do not EVER recommend any of our puppy buyers take their pup (or other dogs for that matter) to dog parks. Too many variables that are just out of our control.

Do we work our dogs?

There are many different types of dog sports out there. All of our imports have been titled prior to arriving in the USA. Kevin has titled Havok in a couple of different sports. Kevin first titled Havok in IPO/IGP. He received a BH on Havok and then an IPO1. This sport has three phases: tracking, obedience, and protection. The dog and handler must pass each level in order to earn their title. Havok earned his IPO 1 with a total of 254 points.

Another sport that Havok is titled in is PSA (Protection Sports Association). Havok was titled to a PSA1. This sport also involves an obedience portion as well as a protection portion.

Should you crate your dog?

Crating of your puppy is highly recommended. It is great to start a foundation while they are young, even if you do not plan on continuing to crate them as they get older. It is much easier to train a young puppy to become accustomed to a crate than it is to train an older dog. We begin the process of crate training here when your puppy is 5 weeks old by getting them acclimated to the crates in a fun way.
Crating will aid with potty training. We all know that you can’t dedicate each second of the day to the puppy. Placing them in an appropriately sized crate will give you a little time to do the things you need to get done.
Crating will also give them a place to go when they are feeling a little overwhelmed. The crate is their room. When trained appropriately, they will routinely go to their room to relax and nap.
Crating your dog is not a punishment! It is a safe place for them to go so they don’t chew anything up or destroy something when you are not home.
We do not recommend putting any bedding in the crate with the puppy. We feel the benefits do not outweigh the risks (chewing bedding/eating bedding/obstruction). Please do not put anything other than chew proof toys in the crate with your pup.

How do I get money to you?

We accept deposits and final payments through Zelle, PayPal, Venmo, and credit cards if necessary. We are not responsible for any fees incurred. If paying electronically for final payment, that MUST be done when puppy is 6 weeks old. In person payment must be cash only. Please send the balance of your puppy at 6 weeks of age if you plan to ship your pup vs. an in person pickup. In person pickups can pay when you arrive to get your puppy from us.

How will I get my puppy?

We have had good luck with having people fly in cabin with their puppies. We will meet you at departing flights with your puppy. It is usually a $100 fee to add your pup as a carry on…you must provide the soft crate the puppy will travel in. I do my best to desensitize puppies to crates from about 5 weeks on. It is recommended pups have chews such as Yak chews or small bully sticks to occupy them prior to take off. Once they are in the air they usually fall asleep.

You have decided to purchase a puppy. What equipment will you need?

Collar: Your puppy will need a collar. Get one that will fit appropriately.
Leash: I prefer a regular type of leash. Usually 4-6 feet in length. You can utilize a flex-leash for potty training, but I would not use it for walking your dog.
Crate: There are many different kinds of crates. I would stay away from a fabric style crate. You will find out quickly that your puppy can destroy that one really quickly. Wire crates also do not contain our puppies for very long. Smart puppies figure out how to get out of those pretty quickly. Best is hard plastic crates.
Food: Currently we feed our puppies Biljac Large Breed Puppy food. We do not require you keep your puppy on that food but do recommend you get a small bag of it to make sure your puppy doesn’t get an upset tummy from switching foods too abruptly. We do NOT recommend grain free foods at this time due to the possible connection between those kinds of foods and heart issues in dogs. We feel it is better to err on the side of caution and chose a food with grain until the veterinary community can figure out what the exact link between the food and the health issues is. Avoid foods with peas, legumes, or potatoes as the main ingredients.
Toys: It is a good idea to get a few toys for your puppy to chew on. I would rather my dog chew on a toy vs my sofa. I only give my puppy toys that I know they can’t destroy unless I am watching them. I know of many people who have lost their dogs to swallowing toys.

How often should I feed my puppy?

We recommend feeding your puppy three times per day. This smaller amount is easier on your puppy. Feeding your puppy too much can sometimes cause diarrhea. As time goes on, you can switch to two feedings per day. I always start with a half cup per feeding and gradually increase it as needed. You will know if you are feeding your puppy too much if your pup’s stools are not firm. You may need to back off the amount you are feeding a bit until you figure out the correct amount for your puppy. Do not go by the feeding recommendations on the dog food bag. That is the quickest way to get a fat puppy. You can get your puppy accustomed to eating twice a day when you need to, they are just used to eating three times a day at the time of pickup.

How much water does my dog need?

Do not leave water down for your puppy to drink whenever they are thirsty while they are learning to potty train. Instead, give them water multiple time throughout the day. Obviously potty training is an important part of your new puppy. Controlling their water intake until they understand the proper place to potty will aid in this endeavor.
I would establish a routine depending on your schedule. For instance, I would not give my new puppy any water after 7pm. As long as I have given them plenty of water throughout the day, this will not hurt them and give you more opportunity to sleep longer.

How often should I work my puppy?

I recommend working your puppy a couple of times per day. I generally keep my sessions short. Roughly 3-5 minutes per session. This will give your puppy some physical/mental exercise and will help tire your puppy out, giving you more freedom. We do not use treats, we use our puppy’s regular food to train them.

What should I do with my puppy if I am not home?

Crate the dog! As we discussed above, crates are not abusive. They are a safe place for your puppy to stay while you are away so they do not eat/destroy your property and potentially injure themselves.

Should I take my puppy to the dog park?

NO
Dog parks are routinely not regulated. You don’t know if the other dogs are properly vaccinated, are dog aggressive, toy aggressive, or people aggressive. Most people don’t even know their own dogs well enough to know. Many times people go to the dog parks to tire their dogs out and aren’t even watching their dogs.
I have seen dogs get bullied and injured at dog parks. Things can happen in the blink of an eye. Why subject your puppy to that?
Sick dogs routinely go to the dog park. Giardia, Coccidia, Parvo, and other viruses live there. Your puppy can get the virus by stepping in feces. Once again, not a fan of dog parks for that reason alone!

When should I start training?

Although the best training is with a Professional Trainer, all training starts at home.
Training can start the day you get your puppy. Realistically, it will be best to wait a day to let your puppy acclimate properly. Starting training early will also help build a better bond between you and your puppy.
All training starts with positive reinforcement. Most of the time that will be food. Give your puppy a piece of food or treat when they do something good. This will encourage good behavior.
Most training usually starts with Potty Training…

What is the best way to potty train my puppy?

The best way to potty train your puppy is to never allow it the opportunity to go to the bathroom in your home. That is easier said than done.
Never allow your puppy out of your sight.
Remember that they have very small bladders and will have to go frequently depending on how much water you give them. On average, I try and get them out every two hours in the beginning. As time goes on, increase the amount of time between potty sessions.
Limit water intake! Do not leave a bowl of water down for your puppy to drink whenever it wants. Give them plenty of opportunities to drink throughout the day. Remember that they will have to potty after drinking or eating! When you get them out of their crate, pick them up and take them straight outside to potty first. When they wake up from a nap, do the same thing. This will help you control their potty sessions.
Praise them when they go potty outside! Give a treat, play with them, etc. Unless of course it’s at 2 am, then you will be desperately trying to not make eye contact in hopes your pup will go back to bed.
If they do not go potty, bring them back inside but watch them. After a couple of minutes, go back outside. This will usually help them to go. Oftentimes they get distracted when they go outside and will not go initially. Coming back inside will trigger the potty response as they are no longer stimulated by new smells.
I would establish a routine depending on your schedule. For instance, I would not give my new puppy any water after 7pm. As long as I have given them plenty of water throughout the day, this will not hurt them and give you more opportunity to sleep longer.

Should I get pet insurance?

Yes! In today’s day and age of very high emergency vet costs, you would not want finances to be the reason you would be able to save your dog or have to put them down. We believe so strongly in our puppy buyers carrying pet insurance policies on our pups that we belong to Trupanion’s Breeder Program. Our puppies leave us with 30 days of free pet insurance. The only requirement by the buyer is that they call the 800 number prior to pickup (or even at pickup) to let Trupanion know when they will have their Von Goedehaus puppy. There is no gap in coverage, it is immediate. This means that if something even happens on the way home or immediately after getting home (heaven forbid!) your puppy is still protected by one of the best pet insurance companies in the country.